Thursday, December 5, 2013
Food Memoir
At the dinner table, Mom is going through the
events of her day, relating them to us with many hand motions and exasperated
expressions. I am waiting for a moment when she looks towards her far right to
make my move. There! Plop. And again waiting, waiting,
there! Slop. Eventually all of the horrid miniature trees were
part of the forest under the dinner table, and I was free of them.
Lunches were more difficult; I had to be crafty,
slipping the lettuce up a sleeve, or sneezing while carrying my plate past the
garbage can and simultaneously dropping my applesauce. To this day, I firmly
believe my over-the-top pickiness pertaining to food, more specifically
anything green or texture-less, was television. Every show I watched had an
anti-vegetable agenda.
It is really a true miracle that I can even
stand to look at any veggies let alone approach them, and sometimes even enjoy
them. That marvel must be attributed to my grandmother. Not because she cooked
in any special way, or she uses more butter to prepare the vegetables—she
scared me into it with good, old-fashioned guilt.
This sudden polarization, going from revulsion
to toleration and intermittent enjoyment, did not occur with a few words and
sentences. It started out with her keen eye, watching my forks journey from the
plate to my mouth, and noticing the passengers’ disappearances. She never
outright talked out it. It would just be a look, a nudge, a cough, a scowl.
When I decided not to heed these warnings, fed up (literally) with leafy
greens, my grandma made her move: she began cooking the foods she ate as a
child.
And as we all got to eat a variety of dishes,
each containing different proportions of cabbage and potatoes, Grandma would
explain how they came about, “In the home country, all we had was cabbage. So
all we ate was boiled cabbage.” She would then go on to clarify that our
cabbage had salt and pepper on it, what we of course considered the basics—but
back in the Ukraine salt was used to preserve meat and pepper saved for special
occasions. “When we came to America, during the Great Depression we had no
money, no food; sometimes we got potatoes, because we grew them.” Without ever
pointedly telling us to appreciate what we have access to, and what we consider
normal, my siblings and I understood through the context in which she grew up.
Food literally meant living another day, and it
was not seen as a leisure activity where my grandma grew up. Food truly is the
base level of Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, and I am now able to appreciate its
necessity. My grandma showed me that through tradition. Without the cultural
explanation through the history and story coming from an elder, the message
would not have been so clearly conceived through just the food itself. In the
same way, many “acquired tastes” (like boiled cabbage) would never catch on,
because you have to be told, by someone you respect, to try it. This shows the
different degrees of respect as it relates to age, according to the Iceberg of
Culture. I tried to foil my mom’s attempts to get me to eat vegetables, but I
did listen to my grandma, so even though both women are elder to me, I could
sense that age carried weight, even as a small child. Thus, lacking that first
introduction I would have continued in my anti-green ways, never being able to
appreciate my culture through my grandmother’s wise words.
This guilt-trip was the instance I learned I was
from the Ukraine. My grandmother still doesn’t like talking about “the
motherland.” She had been taught to fear uncovering ancestry, since her family
faced such backlash as immigrants when she was growing up. In America, many
immigrant minorities faced criticism; those from Eastern Europe were, on
balance, poorer. They came with lesser or no wealth, their possessions almost
nonexistent, and undertook the arduous journey from the other side of the
world. This flood basin of poverty collecting in this boundary of Europe and
Asia, encompassing Russia and the Slavic, central, and Baltic countries, can be
attributed to the crops most common there: potatoes. Many dishes featuring
potatoes are innately “poor-man’s” dishes, due to the simple and cheap
ingredients paired with straightforward preparation. Cabbage and potatoes was
my grandmother’s first dish she learned to cook. Food in cultural dishes are
“…intimately intertwined with ideological, political, and economic realities”
(Twiss 2). Had my grandmother not grown up in that region, in those
circumstances, I probably would have never been convinced to give green things
another try. I wouldn’t have had as much perspective on other parts of the
world or other times in history. And I definitely would not have had the deep
relationship with my grandma through food as I do now.
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